How to Use Hot Rollers on Long Hair, Including the 5 Best Options

Section Your Clean, Dry Hair

Unlike the wet sets of yore, you're going to want to start out with dry hair before using your hot rollers (after washing and detangling, that is). Any moisture in your strands or oil on the scalp may sizzle and fry your hair once the heat of the rollers is applied and is, therefore, best avoided. "If the hair is dripping wet, the hot rollers will take a really long time to work," adds Prothero.

Also, be sure to use a heat protectant for extra security, says Kimble. Although hot rollers are less damaging to hair than curling irons, they're still a method of heat styling. We suggest spraying Kimble's Blockbuster Heat Protectant ($11) or Davines Love Smoothing Perfector Serum ($29) onto hair before blow-drying on a low heat setting.

Next, you'll want to section your hair according to your desired parting to make it easier to style. You can section in quadrants or you can do this around a mohawk section—whatever makes the most sense for you and your growth pattern, length, and desired result. The main goal is to stay organized and help you manage your hair neatly as you go

Start Rolling, With Special Attention to Direction and Size

The key to getting major volume from using hot rollers is the same when using any heat application or tool: direction. When you over-direct your hair one way and then lay it in the opposite direction, you’re creating lift in the hair. So when you place your rollers in, the angle at which you’re holding your hair out when rolling it down to the scalp is going to dictate how much volume you get once the roller is removed.

For long, cascading waves, you’ll want to place your medium rollers around the face, and your larger rollers down the mohawk center section towards the crown of the head where you want the most volume. Rolling away from your face will create that wind-blown look you're probably after.

Make Sure Your Rollers Are Secure

As you roll up each section of hair, be sure to fasten securely—your roller set should come with crease-free pins or clips. And remember: "If you don’t want the curl too tight, make sure you use the right size for the right curl," notes Kimble.

Wait 15 to 20 Minutes

One of the best parts about using hot rollers is the nearly instantaneous results. Once hair is prepped and pinned, 15 to 20 minutes is all it takes for your set to work its curling magic. During this time, get dressed, enjoy a snack, meditate—whatever. "The main advantage of using hot rollers is you get to multitask as you get ready," says Prothero. Also, it won't hurt to spritz on some hairspray, texturizing spray, or a dry-oil mist (depending on your hair's specific needs) while you wait. "Setting sprays work to lock in the curl," adds Kimble.

Check Your Roller Temp, Then Remove

Once your 15 to 20 minutes of wearing the rollers are up, check to see that they've cooled. "Wait until the hot rollers are completely cooled down before taking them out," emphasizes Prothero. "This ensures the curls keep their shape throughout the day. You can use the cool button on your blow-dryer on low to speed up the cooling time."

Style and Go

And there you have it: Bouncy, voluminous, hot-rolled hair. If your hair is still looking a little too straight for your liking, Kimble suggests giving a little bump to the ends of hair while blow-drying (her Pro Hair Dryer ($43) is where it's at).